![]() ![]() The wires will be secured in more spots than you can see now. I will be extra careful to make sure there is no way for the wires to move. The big piece of foam in the middle of the fuse is the 4 cell NiMh battery pack I will use now that will plug into the optical cut off. That went to the regulator and then the cut off and finally the ignition. I had a cable that plugged in between the RX and the Battery that had a built in lead to power the ignition. You can see the leads from the 2 LiFe batteries sticking out of the covers on the sides of the fuse in one picture. Wires are tied down and not moving around. All plugs have heat shrink keeping them secure. I replaced everything but the battery after the first failure and reinstalled all new parts. It starts easily and idles but will backfire at full throttle. The second ignition started with the full throttle problem. I checked timing and it was fine on the bench. The pickup was never moved by me and did not move on it own due to vibration. After trying to get it to run thinking I had a fuel delivery problem on the low end it suddenly started an idled perfectly. The first one would not run properly at idle or even start most of the time I tried. The ignitions would always fire but the timing would be way off each time. ![]() The wires were secured and no damage was found when all the parts were removed the first time. I have pics attached but the wires are not in their final locations because I am installing the new unit now. Good luck and please post pics and keep an open mind. One other advise don't listen to the 2 or 3 people who aware they had an issue with so many modules I have 5 rcexcel and not a one of them ever failed but the wires on an option-kill and on a melody module did fail. There is no need to mount an ignition module on foam and infact you will likely continue to have this issue as long as you keep mounting it in this manner. You need to always mount your ignition in a manner that the module, kill switch and wires don't move separately. Second time was same issue but it was the opti-kill wire, when I changed module it seemed like it worked until the wire moved from vibrations again. I have had your same problem twice and thought it was module but once it was the module power lead that had broke because I mounted ignition on foam. ![]() It is nearly impossible to actually have the module internals fail unless you fry it by running more than 6.0v. I am willing to bet your wires are shorting. Look I don't want to be disrespectful or anything but you would be surprised how easy it is to think your installs are "exactly" the same. The only difference was the electronics but 42% Products have a good reputation. They are exactly the same including the color. I doubt it's the physical install since it's fine on my friends Yak. ![]() Any suggestions on things to look for that could contribute to this? I know the cap was all the way on. Seems like a few of us are having "Bad Luck". The ignition is mounted to the center of the X with foam underneath and 2 Velcro straps on the right side of my plane and my friends. The engine box is an X on the top and sides. I did replace the regulator and cut off after the first failure just to be safe but it didn't help. I replaced the LiFe and regulator with a 4 cell NiMh pack but still have the Optical cut off. My friend runs a 4 cell NiMh and no cut off. The difference is I was running a Hyperion LiFe battery, and a regulator plus optical cut off from 42% Products. My friend has the same plane with the same ignition install and no problems after a few seasons. The ignition is mounted on the engine box with foam and Velcro straps. I just had to order the second replacement. I had an engine waiting on the completion of a plane that I stole the first replacement from. They were the original units that come with the DLE. ![]()
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